Candele alla genovese: long candele pasta broken and cooked in slow onion-and-beef sauce
Restaurants

Mimì alla Ferrovia

Via Alfonso D'Aragona 19-21 Near Napoli Centrale Walk-in for 1 to 3 diners

Mimì alla Ferrovia opened in 1943 by the railway, as its name says, at Via Alfonso D'Aragona 19-21, a few minutes from Napoli Centrale. The Giugliano family has run it for more than 80 years. Gambero Rosso describes it as a reliable address that keeps classics you rarely see elsewhere, such as the stuffed 'mbuttunato pepper, and adds a few jokes, like a "taco bao" filled with genovese.

It has an unusual booking system. Tables for one to three people are walk-in only: you arrive, and if the room is full you leave your name on the waiting list at the door. Four to ten people book online, and larger groups phone or email. The restaurant does not publish its prices or hours online.

At a glance

Address
Via Alfonso D'Aragona 19-21, near Piazza Garibaldi and Napoli Centrale. Phone +39 081 553 8525.
Booking
Groups of 1 to 3: just turn up and leave your name on the waiting list if it is full. Groups of 4 to 10: book online. 11 or more: phone or email.
Price
Not published online, and we found no recent review that printed them. Ask to see the menu before you sit.
Hours
Not published on the restaurant's site; phone ahead, especially on Sundays and holidays.
Chef
Salvatore Giugliano, born 1991, trained in Michelin-starred kitchens before returning to the family restaurant.

In this guide

What to order

The primi on the current menu are the reason to come:

  • Candele alla genovese: the long, thick candele pasta with the slow onion sauce.
  • Pasta mista, patate, provola e guanciale: pasta e patate with cured pork cheek. Gambero Rosso names this version.
  • Spaghetti con vongole veraci: the classic with real clams.
  • Linguine with mussels, basil and courgette flowers, and tubettoni with yellow Piennolo tomatoes and smoked buffalo sauce.

For mains, Gambero Rosso mentions fried salt cod and meatballs in ragù, and eggplant parmigiana made the traditional way.

Eighty years by the tracks

According to the family, the trattoria was opened in 1943, in the middle of the war, by a young couple, Ida and Emilio Giugliano, known as Mimì. He loved horses, so a horseshoe became the restaurant's emblem. Its position by the station and the trade routes gave rise to the family's saying, "l'Italia passa per Mimì": all of Italy passes through Mimì's. The restaurant is now in its third generation. For the 80th anniversary in 2023 it opened a permanent exhibition of 80 photographs and mementos, and the mayor awarded it the Medal of the City of Naples.

Desserts are the Neapolitan set: babà, pastiera, chocolate caprese, delizia al limone and, in season, zeppole di San Giuseppe. The family also runs a villa venue, D'Angelo Santa Caterina, on the Vomero hill.

The kitchen now

The chef is Salvatore Giugliano, born in 1991, son of Michele senior. According to the restaurant, he decided to become a chef as soon as he finished school and, from 2011, trained in Michelin-starred kitchens, starting at Marennà, before returning to run the family kitchen. The menu shows it: the classics are untouched, and around them sit a few lighter, more modern plates.

Using it on a station day

This is the restaurant to plan around a train. If you are taking the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii or Herculaneum, or a high-speed train to Rome, a late lunch here is a better last meal than anything in the station. See our Circumvesuviana guide for timings.

Two practical points. First, because the restaurant does not publish prices, ask for the menu before you commit. Second, the streets around Piazza Garibaldi are busy and rough at the edges; keep your phone and wallet close as you would at any big station.

For a cheaper station-area meal, the original La Masardona sells fried pizza from €3.50, and Da Michele is in the same part of town.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need to book Mimì alla Ferrovia?

Only for groups of four or more, online. Parties of one to three walk in and join the waiting list if it is full.

Where is Mimì alla Ferrovia?

Via Alfonso D'Aragona 19-21, near Piazza Garibaldi and Napoli Centrale station.

How old is Mimì alla Ferrovia?

It opened in 1943, so it has served for more than 80 years, still under the Giugliano family.

How much does Mimì alla Ferrovia cost?

The restaurant does not publish prices online, and we found no recent review that printed them. Ask for the menu before you sit.

Further reading

Official sources

  1. Mimì alla Ferrovia - home and booking rules (official) – Since 1943; walk-in for 1-3, online booking for 4-10, phone or email for 11+; chef Salvatore Giugliano, born 1991, trained from 2011 starting at Marennà; checked September 30, 2026
  2. Mimì alla Ferrovia - primi piatti (official) – Candele alla genovese, pasta mista patate provola e guanciale, spaghetti con vongole veraci, linguine, tubettoni
  3. Mimì alla Ferrovia - contacts (official) – Via Alfonso D'Aragona 19-21, phone +39 081 553 8525
  4. Gambero Rosso International - where to eat pasta, potatoes and provola in Naples (January 2024) – Giugliano family, more than 80 years; 'mbuttunato pepper, parmigiana, clams, pasta e patate with guanciale, fried cod, meatballs, genovese taco bao