Enoteca Belledonne

Ask the staff to pour you something from Campania, then order from the short menu:

• Pane, burro e alici (€8): toast, butter and Cetara anchovies. The ideal snack with a cold white.
• Bruschette miste (€7): cherry tomatoes, friarielli in oil, Cantabrian anchovies, sun-dried tomatoes and grilled eggplant.
• Tagliere salumi e formaggi (€18): prosciutto, pancetta, mortadella and four cheeses, for two or more.
• Pinse romane (from €8) and mortadella alla piastra (€8) with pistachios and balsamic.

Ice cream comes from the Del Gallo gelateria (€6).

Before 8 p.m. it is still partly a shop, and you can buy a bottle to take away; the enoteca also ships across Italy. After that it is a bar. The inside room is small, so most people drink at the counter or outside. You can book through the site, which is worth doing for a group on a Friday or Saturday.

Flat shoes help: the lanes of the baretti are narrow and uneven. For cocktails instead, L'Antiquario is also in Chiaia. For dinner after, the seafront pizzerias, such as 50 Kalò in Mergellina, are a walk along the Lungomare.

The shop side is useful if you want Campanian wine to carry or send home. The enoteca sells for takeaway every day it is open, delivers within Naples, and ships anywhere in Italy by courier. It takes all major cards, debit cards, Satispay and PayPal. Ask for Falanghina, Fiano or Greco among the whites and Aglianico or Piedirosso among the reds if you want to taste the region, and taste by the glass at the bar before you buy.